Tōhoku Earthquake

Well, it's been awhile since my last post and almost three weeks now since the biggest earthquake in the recorded history of Japan. The dust has definetely not settled and the results of this horrific natural disaster will be evident for years to come, as many towns and villages must start over, and families try to rebuild their homes and lives, with many of their family missing.

Fortunately, as you all know by now, my new home here in the land of the rising sun is nowhere near Sendai, but the impact of what has happened still hit just as hard mentally and emotionally. Upon hearing the news, it was only an explanation as to why my mobile phone suddenly stopped working that Friday afternoon. I heard about it about two hours after, and went on to finish my day and teach the remaining three classes I had. It wasn't until the drive home at about 8:30pm, that we were able to see the footage on the TV in the car when we were stopped at red lights. The feeling of knowing this is happening so close to me is indescribable. We've all seen footage of earthquakes and hurricanes around the world, and everybody says the same thing 'Oh that's so terrible'. Growing up in the Canadian prairies, the worst I've ever had to endure is a bad snowstorm and -60C weather. When something like this happens, it sometimes takes awhile to sink in. It wasn't until I was home in my apartment, checking my facebook and e-mail that the reality of it set in. As my friends and family around the world awoke to a bright new day and heard of the news of what happened here while they were sound asleep safe in their beds, I began receiving more and more messages asking if I was OK. Upon turning on the TV, every single channel was covering the earthquake, resulting tsunami, and other issues caused by it, such as the nuclear power plant issues in Fukushima. In the corner of every screen was a map of Japan, with nearly all of the coastline flashing different colours, to show who had tsunami warnings and of what severity. My coast is an inland sea in Southwestern Japan and until Saturday evening, we even had warnings of small tsunamis. I didn't understand 98% of what was on the TV, which made it even worse.

The 9.0 quake happened March 11, 2011 at roughly 2:46 p.m. Lasting around 6 minutes, it was an incredibly long, and strong earthquake. So strong in fact, it was felt as far away as Beijing, China, and has permanently moved all of Honshu island roughly eight feet towards North America. The quake itself happened about 72 km from the coast, which triggered a tsunami as high as 77 feet, which reached up to 10km inland, sweeping away homes, buildings, schools, animals, vehicles, and people. It is impossible to imagine seeing it coming towards you and knowing there is nothing that can be done to escape it. Today, over two weeks later, the death toll is over 10,000, with over 16,000 still missing and nearly 3,000 injured. The number of people it has affected is over five times the population of my hometown. There are whole towns missing, wiped out forever. Japan is a country which has grown used to earthquakes, and they have been expecting 'the big one' for years. The infrastructure across the country is designed to survive earthquakes, but no amount of technology can ever be prepared for a disaster such as this. The people of Japan got a one minute warning, which may seem like nothing, but in fact managed to save many thousands, if not millions, of lives. The aftershocks are said to last a few months, and in the days following the quake, some aftershocks were rated 6-7; as strong as the quake in Christchurch less than one month prior that brought that city to its knees.

The weekend after the quake was filled mainly with watching my TV which sometimes reported in English, and trying to find out information online. Waking Saturday morning, I almost thought it had been a bad dream until I turned on the TV again. As my computer was sometimes not charging properly ( I don't know if this is due to the quake or not, it's been working fine since), there was an 8 hour span when I had no idea what was happening, and could not speak to anybody outside of Japan. At times I would burst into tears because I didn't know what to do, whether I should leave Japan right when I had got settled, or not. The paranoia in me made me fill my tub with water so that if there was a complete nuclear meltdown I would have an uncontaminated supply of water. I also went and bought another 5kg bag of rice and face masks. Thanks to my brother, I also researched KI pills and geiger counters when my computer was working, along with registering with the Canadian government to get regular updates, and researching flights. I have friends who were teaching up north and left for the south, but have returned in the past few days. The fact is the Japanese government is extremely conscience and aware of the Japanese people's safety, and this is their number one priority. This is not going to be another Chernobyl (even if it was rated as a 6), because this is not the Soviet Union. And if anything does happen, the winds of Japan are westerly prevailing, meaning the majority of radiation will be carried out to sea, far far away from me. At least, this is what the gaijins who remain keep telling themselves. 15% of energy in Canada is from nuclear power. We are fortunate that we can use other methods due to our natural resources. The fact is Japan has virtually no natural resources and a huge population in a small area, therefore nuclear power will continue to be used.

I appreciate everybody's concern and support in the weeks following the quake. At this point, it's all I'm bombarded with 24-7, everywhere I go, and it's the last thing I want to talk about. But let's remember what the real problem is and leave the nuclear power plant in the hands of the capable experts. The real issue is rebuilding these communities, rescuing injured animals, finding the bodies of missing people, and insuring the survivors have food, water, shelter, and medical attention. Remember, these aren't just faces on a TV screen on the other side of the world. These are people's parents, spouses, children, siblings, best friends, and grandparents. And they're now my neighbours. Any little bit you can spare will help. Communities all around the world are holding fundraisers. I know we all are busy with our modern lives, but if you can spare a few dollars, please do. If Kim Jong-il can find it in his heart, surely you can too. :)

On a lighter note: I think I bought incontinence pads rather than feminine pads.

Praise the Lord!

Why do bible thumpers always find me??? It seems wherever I go in the world, the thump of the bible isn't far behind. I don't care what other people believe, I was raised Roman Catholic, but the scientist in me just cannot believe in religion. Considering I've been at this job not yet one week, and obviously don't yet have any friends in the area, I could not come up with an answer better than 'Sure' when asked if I wanted to come to the base for church. The only thing I honestly really heard was base, as in the American Marine Corps Air Station in Iwakuni, and it wasn't until after that I stopped and thought 'Wait a second, did I just agree to go to church??!!'. I was certain I would burst into flames the second I walked through the door. I think I've been to church once since my mother's funeral and that was over three years ago for Christmas. I'm not even one of those girls who go gaga over men in uniform, in fact the hippy in me (and there's a whole lot of hippy!) is anti anything pertaining to war and soldiers and would much rather knock one out, especially considering I've never met one who's not a complete twat, but that's for a whole other blog.

I really should have known the second my boss picked me up from the bus in Tokuyama and I saw some Christian bible quote in her van pinned to the glove box. And then on the awkward ride to Hikari, she suddenly asks if I am religious and tells me she's a Christian. I really should have gone running back to Tokyo right then and there. And then there was the school meeting, where I'm handed the principles of the school, and SURPRISE SURPRISE there's ten of them that all look strangely familiar to the ten commandments. Maybe I look like I need saving? Although I like to think I look quite ordinary now, given my piercings are out (at work), I hide my tattoos, and my hair is a natural (not to me however) colour. No black nail polish, I even wear colours now and my makeup is not so dark! So I don't think I look too much like the spawn of Satan, not like I may have in the past anyway.

But the lure of the base called to me. Forgive a girl for being curious after having been surrounded by Japanese meat for a month. Minus the awkwardness of the service, it turned out to be a good day. But boy was that hour awkward. It took everything in me not to burst out laughing every time the large Southern woman would yell 'Amen!' or 'Praise the Lord!' after everything the pastor said.

Honestly, it wasn't even the lure of maybe finding a hot American soldier, because really, the army fatigues and crew cuts and the horrible, arrogant, whiny, accent really do nothing for me. It was the promise of the food court after. Yes, I realize this is immature and how you get children to go to church, but hey, the thought of Burger King, Pizza Hut, Krispy Kreme, Baskin Robbins, Taco Bell, Subway, KFC, and bagels all under one roof, is enough to get me there once a month. Plus the Oreos, Chunks Ahoy and peanut butter at the church. AND ALL IN AMERICAN SIZED PORTIONS! AND Lipton Iced Tea! Unfortunately, these are the only things you can get unless you're living on the base. And you can't even get on base unless you're escorted by someone who lives on it. But there are American clothing shops (with American sizes), American supermarkets (with Eggos and Delissio pizza and tater tots! Or so I've heard...I wasn't even allowed in), and tax free American book stores. Now just to find someone who's willing to buy these things for me...

It wasn't until I was surrounded by all these familiar things, could understand everything written around me and being spoken around me (so much for living in my own little world), that I really realized how hard the last month has been to get around and how doing simple day to day things are such a challenge. We really do take what we have for granted. I could easily speak to the people around me (and didn't have to slow down), I didn't feel like a giant (in fact I'm considered average, if not skinny in American standards!), and I definitely did not feel like all eyes were on the gaijin (that's me btw). I could blend in and not worry if I was being rude, even if just for a few hours. Everyone should definitely at some point have to stay a few weeks in a country where you're not the norm, to understand what it's like when someone from another country is coming to Canada, the U.S., or the U.K., and then maybe the world would be a happier place. :)

If only I was near a Canadian base, I could get my Timmy's fix. So although I was hesitant, and would much rather have been introduced to Buddhism or Shinto, I did find somewhere which can be my respite once a month, my own little safe haven of North American culture and big greasy burgers. Amen!

Bigger is better?

As much as it pains me to say it, all of the touristy type things I've seen in Tokyo so far have not quite lived up to my expectations. Don't get me wrong, I still love the country. It may sound like an innuendo or cliche, but everything is just so SMALL and disappointing...maybe bigger is always better?

Let's start with portion sizes. Obviously, I realize North American portion sizes are ridiculously huge and likely a reason the majority of us (myself included!) are considered overweight. But we are genetically bigger people and therefore need more sustenance, no? When I pay the equivalent of roughly $11 Canadian dollars in a pub for a burger and beer with fries, I'm expecting to go home slightly buzzed and full for the night. But in Tokyo you get a tiny 1.5 ounce patty on a bun with some lettuce, half a bottle of beer, and a Japanese size handful of dried out fries. I guess that's why you should stick to the local food or make your own with goods from the 100 Yen shop!

Next disappointment: the Imperial Palace and its Gardens. First of all we got to the gardens at about 3:30 in the afternoon to be told it closes at 4:00...when does anything close at 4:00pm??? I thought this was the city that never sleeps! So we raced around the gardens trying to see as much of the dead grass and non-blooming flowers as we could. It is the dead of winter I suppose. After being kicked out, we continued to walk around the outskirts of the gardens for about 4 km., hoping to catch a glimpse of the Palace through the trees and walls. No such luck. What kind of Palace is only open to its people two days of the year (December 23, for the Emperor's birthday and for New Year)?? Buckingham Palace is smack dab in the middle of London for all the world to see whenever they want to.

Next: Tokyo Tower. OK, this doesn't really fit in with the whole theme of being small, because it is actually 9 metres taller than the Eiffel Tower, which is already pretty impressive. It wasn't even on the itinerary for the day, I just happened to glimpse an ugly version of the Eiffel Tower through some skyscrapers on the way to Ginza and it looked closer than it actually was. Problem here being, I've seen the Eiffel Tower in all its glory, and the Tokyo Tower is just an ugly, slightly-larger-but-I-can't-really-tell-anyways-pretty-much-exact-replica version. Plus its painted in ugly 'international orange' and white stripes and plunked down in a random place in Tokyo whereas the Eiffel Tower has lovely gardens and shit leading up to it.

Then was Harajuku. I know it was quite cold the Sunday I went, there were even a few flakes falling as I walked out of the Yebisu Beer Museum (also disappointing, so much that this is the only mention it's getting in fact), but surely there would be some hardcore Harajuku girls out? We did manage to see a few, even got a picture of some Little Bo Peep types in a store, as well as the full Power Rangers clan and a creepy man dressed head to toe in Hello Kitty gear. I will definitely be back on Takeshita Dori the next time I'm in Tokyo, for the shopping and some more people watching. But alas, it was also disappointing. The only good thing about it was I found a piercing store and managed to find a ball to fit my lip stud I lost a few weeks back (see previous blog for full explanation).

I can't really say all of Tokyo is disappointing, it's often like that anywhere you go that's been hyped up for years. Nothing ever lives up to our expectations in this day and age. But if everyone's first impressions of Tokyo are similar to these, is it really any wonder Japanese men get such a bad rap in the size department? Stay tuned...;)

Wakarimasen!

So I've been talking about starting a travel blog for this upcoming (and now nearly two months in) trip, and recently a certain someone has been bugging me about it to no end. So today after yet another job interview, I've decided to begin, rather than staring at my computer watching Shameless episodes download and eating unrecognizable and definitely mispronounced Japanese food.

I've been here in Tokyo nearly two weeks now 'looking for a job' and have since settled in quite nicely, although the first few days were definitely not so easy. I have never experienced culture shock like I did upon arrival in Tokyo, and I have never thought when walking through the streets of any city 'What the hell am I doing here??!!' It most likely had something to do with discovering on the first full day here that the Japanese Association for Working Holiday Makers went bankrupt back in AUGUST. Thanks SWAP, for informing me that the one saving grace I was counting on upon arrival would not be assisting me in learning Japanese, opening a bank account, getting a phone, finding a job, applying for an Alien Registration card, finding a place to live, and basically just functioning. Why did I pay them $500 again???

But that's beside the point. The next day I checked out of my stiflingly hot, $50 a night, 6 bed dorm to something a bit cheaper, and much colder. I had e-mailed this hostel back in December while in Scotland and out of the maybe 5 I managed to e-mail in between pints, this is the only one that replied. So I asked the girl at reception if the manager was around and mentioned that I had been told I could do some cleaning in exchange for a bed. She said she remembered and would call her boss to see if there was any work at the restaurant. Wtf?? So I of course just smiled and said 'OK'. 20 minutes later a little Chinese man walks in reception smiling. And speaking Chinese. We sit down at a table and he conducts his 'interview' with Shi (reception girl) as the interpreter. After determining I speak no Japanese, was wanting to clean at the hostel, and am here looking for a job teaching English, she (and Shi) says 'Do you have any plans tonight?'

'Well no,' I say, 'Its only Saturday night in downtown Tokyo town.'

So I end up going on a silent 20 minute subway ride with my new boss (who's name I don't know) to one of his many Chinese restaurants (which I also don't know the name of). I walk in with him and surprise surprise! Nobody speaks English. This just keeps getting better and better. But hey, a true backpacker will do just about anything for a free place to stay, a Tokyo metro pass, a free meal a day, and a few yen in her pocket.

From what I had gathered back at the hostel there was a tour group of about 70 Chinese men coming through for a meal, so they could use my help serving. This would be easy enough. Just walk out with the plates and set them down on the turny thing in the middle of the table and walk away. I've never been a waitress because I know I'm a clutz and prone to spilling things, but I'm sure I can do this.

I'm supposed to be there four hours and the first hour consists of me basically standing around in my own world, smiling and laughing when it seems appropriate, and wondering where the EHO's are with these cooks and their cigarettes hanging out of their mouths. Maybe I'll say I don't want the free food after all because I'm vegetarian.

And then suddenly there's a storm of Chinese men, swarming around, through the kitchen, filling the restaurant with even more smoke and mindless (to me) chatter. And then there's bowls and plates being thrust into my hands and motioning me to take them out. 'Well this isn't so bad now is it? I can do this!' I think to myself, 'It's a bit lonely but on Monday the boy from Mexico will be in and he speaks English!'

Wait a second, where's the ball from my lip stud?? Oh shit...I glance around the room to see if anyone has found it in their plate of Kung Pao chicken, or whatever it is I'm serving. But I'm interrupted by more rapid hand gestures, I suppose indicating to me to get a move on.

I rush back to the kitchen and grab two huge, full, heavy bowls of some sort of soup. Maybe I'm pro enough now to handles three, with one resting on my arm? No, it's probably a bit early for that. I hurry back to the tables and reach over a little Chinese man to set one of the bowls on his table. What's that sound? It sounds like screaming, but why? Where is it coming from? It sounds so close...oh wait, it's coming from right beside me. Below me in fact. The little Chinese man. I look down and see it is him screaming. Because I am spilling the other giant bowl of soup on him as I'm setting the other one down. The two tour leaders are already there wiping it off him and chattering away. Do they ever stop their mindless chatter??? But this time it's aimed at me. I try and remember how to say sorry in Japanese but it doesn't really matter considering they're Chinese.

I literally run back into the kitchen, hoping they'll send me home or at least let me do dishes, but no, they thrust more plates and bowls at me. I walk back out into the restaurant, and can feel all 140 eyes burning holes into me as they glare at the giant who tried to drown the little old man.

Finally they all get up and leave and we can start cleaning up and once its all done (an hour early...is that just lucky or do they just want me gone?)I get to go on another awkward 20 minute metro journey back to the hostel.

"Boss says you did very good. You can have tomorrow off and meet him in reception at 9:30am Monday morning and he will get you a metro pass and take you to the restaurant with Jorge."

OK, well maybe it wasn't as bad as I thought. Maybe all new servers lose facial jewelry and give third degree burns to a grandpa on their first day.

Or maybe not.

Monday morning rolls around and I'm told I can just clean at the hostel until I learn a bit more Japanese.

Welcome to Tokyo.

Wakarimasen, I just don't understand.